When in Rome!

Chef Tassa (Right) accepting another 3 forks!

 In Europe each country has a restaurant ranking system unique to themselves. In Italy they are ranked by a number of forks; from 1-3 by the Gambero Rosso Organization.

http://www.gamberorosso.it/en/

I have yet to learn all about the organization but I am aware that they started off with just the critique of wine and have naturally moved onto food. They are very well known throughout the country to anyone who knows a pinch about food, so if you ever come to Italy and are seeking the best food and wine, you should buy the Gambero Rosso guide: http://www.gamberorosso.it/article?product=1770&id=260213 I also know that they hold two very well equipped city centres in Rome and Naples. http://www.gamberorosso.it/home_page_city The centre in Rome is even completed with a culinary school.

On October 11^th, I was lucky enough to experience the kitchens at the Gambero Rosso City Centre in Rome. Chef Tassa received 3 forks, yet again, so this night was a celebration of such calibre of chefs from around the country. A city centre dedicated to the culinary arts at this quality would never be found in North America, this place is four floors of culinary heaven. On the 3^rd floor where I worked there is a 4 kitchen to 1x 150 seat dining room ratio. The kitchens have top of line everything all of the gas and more so induction burners were enough to get me excited. In 2 of these 4 kitchens one could close some divider doors and turn on a cooling system which chills the room like a giant fridge in order to chill your plates for plating cold courses, like dessert.

This evening chef was paired with another chef and they served a 6 course meal together, both chefs did an antipasto (appetizer), then they each served two courses.

I arrived at the venue with the other stager and chefs two wingmen- the sous chef and pastry cook- several hours early in order to finish some last minute prep. My job was to clean the most beautiful white truffles which took about 3-4 hours.

The truffles..

My heaven will smell like white truffles.

Chef was in a great mood this day, some of the students from the school in the building stuck around to volunteer their time and meet some of the best chefs in the country. Several of these students were female so chef was all smiles while answering any of the questions.

A couple hours into truffle cleaning chef demanded a meal, so we all enjoyed spaghetti pomodoro strung about the kitchen.

Television interview

We had a couple of hours to kill before dinner was finally served, chef was interviewed which was entertaining to watch. I didn’t know the questions being asked but Chef is a man of few words, why change for a television interview? The answers could have been about 4 words but it sounded like one to me. Chef also demonstrated plating the dessert he was serving that evening, when asked what the dish was called he said “Terra” and shrugged his shoulders and giggled.

Plating Terra

"Listening in" on the interview

Wild Rabbit non-Lasagna with White Truffle and Rabbit Demi

Service went very smoothly, our appetizer is chefs famous Onion, served as a primi course at the restaurant. This dish put chef on the map and he has been known for it for 20 years.

The other chef served his two courses next

Then Chef Tassa served a version of his Wild Rabbit “Lasagna”- minus the pasta extra white truffles. During this I was serving the sauce which is a very strong and rich rabbit reduction and is served on the side so the diner can enjoy the flavours at his or her own discretion; too much of this sauce would over power the entire dish. During service, as I ladled an ounce of sauce into itsy bitsy dishes careful not to graze the white rims, I glanced over at Chef. Caught red handed- the other Chef was popping HUGE pieces of white truffle into his mouth! My back had been toward him this entire time so he thought he was being sneaky- the guy must have eaten 200 Euro’s worth of truffle. I was jealous.

Terra- Chocolate and Hazelnut Mousse,
Raspberry and Currant coulis, Vanilla lentils,
Green tea, orange and juniper.

After dessert was served Chef mingled amongst his fans as we chatted in the kitchen- which we didn’t have to clean, first time for everything. The service staff started to bring in bottles of wine. These bottles were full, or close too it, 2003’s, 4s and 5s, so we all had a serious taste test- it’s all about quality control. 

Chef's Main Men- Sous, Stager, Ex-Sous and Pastry